Saturday, September 1, 2018

Jacket, Part 1

It's September and time to start thinking about clothes for cooler weather.  A great transition piece is a simple jacket.  I was thinking of something a bit dressier than my fleece jackets from my Fun With Fleece project.
I chose Butterick 6493 for the pattern.  This unusual jacket has raglan sleeves and princess seams.  The idea was that this combination would make fitting the jacket easier.  It's also got separate pattern pieces for people with different cup sizes, which is a real plus for those of us who are a bit more flat chested than average.
I chose a peacock blue stretch denim for the jacket.  This material is very easy to work with, as I found out with a previous project.  It's also not particularly expensive, which is a real plus when you aren't completely sure how something is going to work out.

After making a bunch of measurements, I decided to make only minor modifications to the pattern, shortening it a bit at the waist.
Now it is time to lay out the pattern.  I noticed that the fabric was only 57" wide, not 60" and has wide selvages, too.  I decided to buy a little extra fabric.  Good choice, as it turned out.
This jacket requires both interfacing and a lining.  The lining is a standard lining fabric.  For the fusible interfacing, I chose this knit product.  It's great for suiting.
The interfacing pieces are first cut with the pattern, then trimmed by 1/2", so that they are just inside the seam lines.  Here's the piece, just ready to fuse.
The pattern has a loop and button closure.  That gets started early in the construction process, too.  It will end up in the seam between the jacket and the lining and be in the right place at the end.
I wasn't really sure if I had the pattern sorted out, so I decided to baste the jacket together instead of doing all the seams the right way.  Normally, you wouldn't include the sleeves, but with this design the shoulder seams are on the sleeves, so all of the jacket pieces needed to be included.
I do my basting with contrasting color thread, to make it easier to remove.  It's a great way to use up odd bobbins of thread.

Now the jacket is basted and except for extra long sleeves, it fits.  The problem is that it seems to be excessively plain.  There's a lot of ways to deal with that problem, including embroidery, but for this project, I think some metallic rick rack will dress it up nicely.
I chose the rick rack because it does a really nice job of following curves, more than a lot of other trims.  I want it to follow the neckline, front, and hem.  That's a lot of curves.

Come back next week to find out how this project turns out!  There's lots more projects on my list, including something for Halloween.





No comments:

Post a Comment